Kev ntxuav hniav dawb yog ib qho kev nrhiav mus ib txhis rau qee tus neeg nyiam kev zoo nkauj. Hnub Monday, Anan tau pab txhua leej txhua tus sau qee qhov kev nkag siab tsis zoo txog kev ntxuav hniav dawb thiab kawm txog kev tshawb fawb txog kev ntxuav hniav dawb.
Cov xim ntawm tib neeg cov tawv nqaij yog cuam tshuam los ntawm cov xim xim. Melanin yog cov khoom ntawm melanocytes. Cov ntsiab lus thiab kev faib tawm ntawm cov pigments no yog cov ntsiab lus tseem ceeb uas txiav txim siab xim ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Melanocytes yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Lawv muaj cov txheej txheem dendritic. Lub synthesized melanin yog secreted rau hauv keratinocytes los ntawm dendritic txheej txheem. Nws raug tshem tawm nrog kev tso tawm ntawm keratinocytes thiab muaj nyob rau hauv lub basal txheej ntawm epidermis, cuam tshuam rau tib neeg cov tawv nqaij xim. .
Cov khoom ua kom dawb yog tsim los ntawm inhibiting kev tsim thiab kev thauj ntawm melanin thiab ua kom melanin shedding. Niaj hnub no cia peb saib qee cov khoom xyaw whitening hauv cov khoom tu tawv nqaij.
Cov khoom xyaw "lub hnub qub", niacinamide
Hais txog niacinamide, ntau tus neeg paub tias nws tuaj yeem ua kom dawb. Nws kuj yog ib qho ntawm feem ntau cov khoom xyaw hauv cov khoom siv ntxuav hniav dawb. Niacinamide tuaj yeem "npaum" melanin kom ua tiav cov nyhuv whitening. Niacinamide, tseem hu ua vitamin B3, yog hom B vitamin. Nws cov txheej txheem ntxuav hniav dawb feem ntau suav nrog: 1) inhibiting qhov tsim ntawm melanin granules; 2) inhibiting kev hloov ntawm melanin rau keratinocytes; 3) ceev kev hloov ntawm melanin nyob rau hauv keratinocytes mus rau lub stratum corneum thiab txhawb lub shedding ntawm lub stratum corneum.
Cov kev tshawb fawb soj ntsuam pom tau hais tias cov khoom tu tawv nqaij uas muaj nicotinamide tuaj yeem txo tus naj npawb thiab qhov chaw ntawm cov tawv nqaij ntawm tib neeg. Kev siv cov khoom tu tawv nqaij mus sij hawm ntev uas muaj nicotinamide tuaj yeem txhawb cov tawv nqaij xim fading thiab tsim freckle tshem tawm thiab ua kom tawv nqaij.
Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce uas muaj niacinamide tsis haum rau txhua tus
Cov poj niam cev xeeb tub yuav tsum tsis txhob siv nws. Kev siv ntau dhau ntawm nicotinamide tuaj yeem ua rau fetal malformations. Nws kuj tsis pom zoo siv thaum pub niam mis.
Tsis tuaj yeem siv los ntawm cov neeg uas nws daim tawv nqaij tsis tuaj yeem zam tau. Niacinamide tej zaum yuav muaj cov impurity niacin, uas yuav ua rau cov tawv nqaij liab, o, mob thaum tshav kub kub, ua xua, thiab lwm yam. Rau kev nyab xeeb, yog tias koj siv cov khoom nicotinamide thawj zaug, koj tuaj yeem siv thawj zaug rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij ntawm koj sab hauv. caj npab los yog hauv qab koj pob ntseg los kuaj seb koj puas muaj kev fab tshuaj.
Melanin blocker, arbutin
Arbutin yog ib qho ntxiv hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce. Nws yog Ameslikas pom los ntawm ursi ursi nplooj thiab yog lub ntsiab active ingredient nyob rau hauv ursi ursi nplooj, yog li nws yog hu ua arbutin. Arbutin tuaj yeem tiv thaiv kab mob lom tyrosinase hauv daim tawv nqaij thiab thaiv kev tsim ntawm melanin. Tsis tas li ntawd, arbutin tuaj yeem ncaj qha ua ke nrog tyrosinase txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau txhawm rau thiab metabolism ntawm melanin. Arbutin tuaj yeem txo cov tawv nqaij pigmentation thiab tshem tawm cov pob thiab freckles. Tam sim no nws yog cov khoom siv tseem ceeb uas feem ntau siv hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce.
Xaiv cov khoom uas muaj arbutin raws li kev tshawb fawb
1. Saib cov ntsiab lus
Qhov tseeb, qhov siab dua cov ntsiab lus arbutin, qhov zoo dua, vim tias arbutin yog photosensitive, thiab yog tias cov concentration siab dhau lawm, yuav muaj qee yam kev nyab xeeb. Thaum cov ntsiab lus ntawm arbutin siab dhau lawm, nws tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev phiv xws li tawv nqaij erythema, stinging, thiab tiv tauj eczema. Yog li ntawd, raws li ib tug whitening muaj nyob rau hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, nws muaj kev ruaj ntseg yog hais tias cov ntsiab lus ntawm arbutin nyob rau hauv 2%.
2. Saib cov khoom xyaw
Arbutin tuaj yeem muab faib ua peb pawg raws li cov qauv sib txawv: deoxyarbutin, -arbutin thiab -arbutin. Deoxyarbutin muaj zog tshaj los tiv thaiv melanin, tab sis nws yooj yim tso tawm hydroquinone thaum siv, uas yuav ua rau muaj kev pheej hmoo ntawm kev ua xua lossis mob qog noj ntshav. Ntau lub tebchaws tau teev deoxyarbutin lossis nws cov tshuaj lom metabolite hydroquinone ua cov khoom xyaw txwv. Yog li ntawd, cov khoom uas muaj deoxyarbutin yuav tsum tsis txhob siv.
Tsis tas li ntawd, nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm kev ua, -arbutin yog 10-15 lub sij hawm nquag nquag tshaj -arbutin. Nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm kev nyab xeeb, -arbutin yog ruaj khov thiab nyuaj rau discolor thiab degrade. Yog li ntawd, yuav cov khoom uas muaj -arbutin yuav ua tau zoo dua, uas txhais tau hais tias nws yog ntau tus phooj ywg rau tib neeg lub cev.
3. Saib txuag
Raws li tau hais los saum toj no, hydroquinone, cov khoom decomposition ntawm arbutin, yog ib qho kev txwv tsis pub muaj nyob hauv lub tebchaws. Vim hydroquinone muaj toxicity, muaj zog irritation, thiab carcinogenic txaus ntshai tshwm sim los ntawm lub sij hawm ntev raug, kuv lub teb chaws "Safety Technical Specifications for Cosmetics" (2015 Edition) teev hydroquinone raws li ib tug txwv raw khoom rau tshuaj pleev ib ce.
Cov khoom lag luam ntxuav hniav dawb uas muaj arbutin yuav maj mam decompose ntawm qhov kub thiab txias ntawm 40-50 degree, tsim cov hydroquinone tsawg heev, uas tuaj yeem ua rau tib neeg lub cev raug mob. Yog li ntawd, kev saib xyuas yuav tsum tau them rau qhov chaw khaws cia ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce uas muaj arbutin, thiab lawv yuav tsum tau muab tso rau hauv qhov chaw qis thiab qhov tsaus ntuj kom tsis txhob muaj kev pheej hmoo.
